Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Broil King 988744 Sovereign XLS 90 Liquid Propane Gas Grill with Side Burner and Rear Rotisserie Burner

Broil King 988744 Sovereign XLS 90 Liquid Propane Gas Grill with Side Burner and Rear Rotisserie Burner

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Product Feature

  • Liquid Propane
  • Includes premium rotisserie kit and procelain coated warming rack
  • 600 sq. in. primary and 1000 sq. in. total cooking surface
  • Solid stainless steel cooking grids
  • 10,000 BTU side burner has ability to prepare side dishes quickly and efficiently

Product Description

The Sovereign Series is your complete outdoor companion for exceptional grilling. The Therma-Cast aluminum oven and solid stainless cooking grids maximize the cooking ability. The spacious storage cabinet with extra-large fold down side shelves provides room for all your condiments and utensils.

Broil King 988744 Sovereign XLS 90 Liquid Propane Gas Grill with Side Burner and Rear Rotisserie Burner Review

I initially hesitated to purchase the Broil King because a number of other reviewers reported serious damage with the delivered product, apparently inflicted by the shipper being used at the time. Still, the price per features and reviews that were very positive about the grill itself won me over. My grill arrived promptly and, aside from minor damage to the exterior packaging, the grill itself was in fact in perfect condition, so it looks like Amazon has resolved the shipping issue.

A caveat: This review is written after initial burn-in and an inaugural use of the Broil King XLS90 LP Gas Grill. I'll update the review with additional comments as it is used more. And use it I will, since it is well worth the premium price. At $880 (US), this Canadian-made grill is a serious investment. For that price, you should expect a solidly made grill that delivers steady, even heat across the grilling surface. The Broil King more than delivers.

Be advised that this grill required roughly 3.5 hours of assembly, not unreasonable for first-timers. The instructions were generally adequate and relatively easy to follow, but not so easy as to be idiot-proof. What was immediately apparent was that Broil King does not in any way cheap out on the essential components. The main oven is made from cast aluminum and is clearly solidly -- and heavily (!) -- built. Other key parts, such as the venturi tubes and other cook parts such as the Flav-R-Wave vaporizing system appear to be well-made of aluminum, while the cooking grills themselves are made of solid stainless steel. This model also shipped with Broil King's premium rotisserie, itself clearly solidly built, with a solid stainless steel rod, 2 sets of heavy duty rotisserie forks for holding the cooking product in place, and what looks to be a reasonably heavy-duty electric motor. The model also includes a rear burner unit for the rotisserie, which is designed to distribute a low flame across the width of the rod as it rotates. Note that one must remove the warming shelf in order to operate the rotisserie, and the rotisserie unit must be removed (and the rear burner not fired up) when the grill itself is being used.

The cabinet has two doors, one shelf, and a preconfigured recess to hold the LP tank. All of these are well-designed but unspectacular. A nice feature is that the doors latch solidly closed (note that they have to be lifted slightly when closing). The model also comes with a covered side burner unit on the left, and a work surface on the right, with recessed external shelf areas on both sides for spices, etc. There are recessed hooks built into each end of the grill from which to hang grilling tools, etc.

Now for the important stuff: This grill can COOK! With the lid closed, the grill preheats very rapidly, pumping out more heat than one can really cook with unless you are using a two-zone high sear, medium/low finish process. If that is your preference, you will be more than satisfied with the Broil King. It is clearly ideal for steaks, allowing you to sear, flip, sear, and flip etc. to get beautiful wide grill cross-hatches. The very solid and wide warming shelf allows the chef to finish cooking the seared product on the upper level. There is room to spare: my inaugural use consisted of 7 individual T-bone steaks, 1/2 dozen bratwurst, and 4 hot peppers on the lower grill, with 7 large foil wrapped baked potatoes on the warming rack. There was no crowding -- all of the various food items had plenty of room. All this cooked quickly and perfectly. The potatoes had been partly cooked in the microwave, but even wrapped in heavy duty foil, they finished cooking perfectly, yielding a crisp external peel with a firm, completely done interior. The steaks were superb -- nicely seared with perfect grill marks on the exterior with the interior tender and flavorful. Medium rare steaks were achieved by quick sear on the lower grill and finishing on the warming rack. A nice feature of the heavy-duty stainless cooking grill is that the bars are spaced close enough together to make fall-through an afterthought. Finally, the touted Flav-R-Wave system works as advertised -- there was virtually no flare-up to speak of, and what very little there was dissipated almost instantly.

Since my initial review, I have had a chance to use the grill a bit more often, including use of the rotisserie. Nothing has changed in my original 5 star review; to the contrary, repeated use has simply underscored the high build quality and overall cook-worthiness of this excellent product. The rotisserie worked very well, with clear and straightforward instructions perfectly sufficient for a novice like me. I cooked two full chickens at the same time, they browned beautifully and looked pretty well identical to our local grilled chicken chain. I had a bit of a struggle keeping the rotisserie "bar" from dropping out of the motor end of the unit, until I looked very closely at the accompanying literature and realized that the small lock nut assembly was meant to sit inside the grill against the inside bar holder at the end closest to the counterweight. Once I made that adjustment, the bar rotated two heavy chickens with further problem. A comment particularly applicable to the rotisserie -- BRINE IS YOUR FRIEND!! Due to a tight schedule, I was unable to brine the chickens before cooking them. I compounded that error by failing to appreciate how efficiently the small horizontal rotisserie gas apparatus actually worked. The result was beautiful looking chicken that was, sadly, dry and overcooked, due entirely to my failure to brine the chicken. My strong recommendation is that you brine pork and poultry lest the remarkably efficient grill and rotisserie dry out the product.

A word about the rotisserie apparatus: Like everything else about this grill, it reflects the overall attention to high quality construction. The grill bar and 4 accompanying prongs appear to be solid stainless steel. They convey heat superbly well and clean up easily after use. They are, however, quite heavy, and the overall apparatus is quite long and bulky, particularly when weighted down with several chickens. Keep this in mind when deciding where and how to mount raw chicken onto the grill bar.

BOTTOM LINE: This is by far the best household grill I have ever owned or cooked on. It heats extremely quickly (the single rear rotisserie gas unit heated the grill to 375 degrees in about 10 minutes), sears beautifully, and shows quality throughout. The more I use it, the more I appreciate how well this grill is built. And the inclusion of a full featured, well made rotisserie unit makes this grill one of the best values out there.

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